The second I stumbled across the newly released Shop Pant by Open Studio Patterns, I immediately knew I wanted to make them. The leg shape and utility style fit is something I've been looking for in a pattern for a long time, and I've had great experiences with the construction techniques and instructions of Open Studio patterns in the past.
Let's get to it!
Fit & Mods
I started with Size 1, knowing I'd have to grade down to account for a 2.5" inch difference in my waist and hip measurements and the final garment measurements. I knew I wanted these to fit tighter than the styling photos I saw too, so I ended up taking a total of 2" from the sides and an additional 1/4" from each of the back darts to produce a more form-fitting look.
For the leg pattern pieces, I shaved 1/2" from the waist and hip lines, grading back out to the original pattern line at the lower thigh (green line). I then had to cut 1/2" off both sides of the pocket pattern pieces to match the pant legs (green line). Finally, I increased the two back darts by an additional 1/8" on either side of the original dart lines at the top hem of the pattern piece.
After first fit, I still had quite a bit of room in the waist, but the hips and thighs felt good. So I pinched the sides in an additional 1/2" on both sides and tapered back to the original stitch line at the pocket opening (red line).
The rest was smooth sailing, until I realized that I had forgotten to shorten the leg pieces at the lengthen/shorten lines. This pattern is made for someone 5'8", so needless to say, they were a bit long on my 5'5" frame. I do have long legs, but I ended up trimming 1" off the bottom hem. The bottom of the pant has a fun stitch detail, and I was sad to lose some of that, plus I think that the line would look better sitting higher on my shin as intended.
This pattern is such a satisfying sew. The instructions were incredibly clear, and the accompanying visuals made every bit of the process smooth and stress free.
I particularly enjoyed the front pocket construction details, and the curved waistband means no gaping for me, even when I'm sitting and bending over.
There were a couple of fumbles along the way, including a not so pretty (on the inside) zipper fly insertion and accidentally interfacing the wrong waistband pattern pieces. I didn't end up having enough leftover fabric, and since these were a wearable muslin, I decided to forge ahead as it was, with the non-interfaced waistband on the outside instead of the inside. I also tried my first jeans button, and...it was not a success. Still trying to figure out if I want to try again or replace it with a sew on button.
All in all, I'm super pumped and know this is going to be a pants pattern that I will return to again and again. I've already placed an order with Blackbird Fabrics for some 9.5 oz. Bull Denim in Goldenrod and am excitedly awaiting its arrival!
Note: When I shared my excitement for the yet-to-be released pattern, Jonnie from Open Studio Patterns was kind enough to reach to me and offer monetary compensation for my transparent feedback on the Shop Pant pattern. Thanks again Jonnie!